An popular stop-off for those on Asian adventures, little developed Laos offers remote temples, makeshift coffee huts, colonial grandeur and stunning scenery. The relaxed feel of this timeless place means you can explore the delights of the Mekong River, the riverfront cafés at heritage-rich Luang Prabang and the bustling markets at Vientiane without hurry. Customary handicrafts sold by women in traditional dress and cultural performances will leave you with a lasting impression, while the slow and uncomfortable transport might leave you with a bad back. If you can tolerate the dust in your hair, Laos is a gem for relaxed adventures.
Luang Prabang: with UNESCO World Heritage site status, this former capital is a must-see, with its ornate temples, markets selling traditional textiles, museums and upmarket restaurants.
Vientiane: offering a slow pace of life, the capital boasts That Luang chedi, Pataxi (a neo-Arch de Triomphe), Wat Sisaket and Wat Haw Pra Keo. Chilling out by the river is a favourite pastime here.
Champasak Province: the ‘four thousand islands’ at the Mekong’s widest point are one of the country’s highlights, with stunning views and ancient ruins.
Vang Vieng: a popular stop-off en-route to Vientiane, this friendly hub offers local caves and clear streams for swimming and well as a stunning mountainous backdrop.
Muang Sing: traditional opium dens and colourful hill tribes make this a town to remember.
Plain of Jars: the unexplained collection of jars is an impressive sight, along with some craters caused by bombings during the Vietnam War.
Bolaven Plateau: magical waterfalls and lush forests characterise this small market town in Saravan.
Three days exploring World Heritage site Luang Prabang
Two days soaking up the relaxed capital of Vientiane
Two days in scenic Vang Vieng
Two days in the Bolaven Plateau or at the Plain of Jars
Additional time
Two day in Maung Sing
Three days in Champasak Province
Food hygiene is sometimes lacking and it’s best not to tuck into anything that looks like it’s been lying around teasing flies for too long. Only drink bottled water and take precautions to protect yourself against the local insects, some of whom carry malaria. Opium and marijuana are illegal here, although you wouldn’t think it. Some roads can be dangerous and there is a substantial amount of unexploded ordinance sitting dormant in the countryside; so don’t pee off the track.
Regular flights to Vientiane Wattay Airport arrive from Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City, Phnom Penh, Yangon and Kunming. There are also flights between Chiang Mai International Airport (Thailand) and the airport at Luang Prabang. It is also popular to cross into Laos by land from the Thai border towns of Chiang Khong and Nong Khai, with comfortable bus connections between both these towns and Bangkok. Once inside, buses traverse the country slowly and unreliably.
The dry season (October to April) is the best time to visit, when temperatures can get as hot as 100ºF. The heat is complemented by dust, and lots of it.
The rainy season (May to September) also sees high temperatures, which are temporarily subdued by afternoon showers, which often cause flooding and disruption to transport.
The mountainous regions can be very cold, especially at night, with temperatures sometime dropping below 50ºF in the winter. The hottest months are April and May.
Slow-boating along the Mekong River: taking a slow boat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang is an amazing adventure, with a one-night stop off in Pakbeng. The river scenery changes dramatically en-route, ensuring you never get bored.
Caving: Laos boasts tons of caves to explore, with Tham Nong Pafa Cave in Khammouan Province being home to as many as 200 Buddha statues of varying sizes.
River-tubing: popular at Vang Vieng, rent a giant inner tube before being dropped off outside the town, from where you can float back along the Mekong.
Bird watching: hits Laos’ national parks for some top-notch bird-watching.
Elephant trekking: one of the most exciting ways in which to go on a short trek, riding an elephant is exhilarating, if not a bit terrifying. A number of tourist spots around the country offer this experience.
Walking: the best way to discover Laos’ cities is on foot, with almost all attractions within walking distance of each other. Those who want to walk among nature can head for Don Khon Island, with its popular walking trails.
Whitewater rafting: the north offers some challenging rapids for those looking for a heart-stopping adventure, while river tubing is a slightly less terrifying alternative.
Shopping: the popular markets at Vientiane and Luang Prabang sell everything from fake designer wear to gorgeous traditional hand-woven bedspreads, sold by mainly older women dressed in traditional costume.
The popular cities of Luang Prabang and Vientiane have a good selection of mid-range hotels, but you’ll be hard pushed to find any luxury in the more remote parts of the country, with simple guesthouses being the norm. With the exception of some exclusive restaurants popping up in the trendy parts of these two urban centres, food is basic and cheap. Transport is notoriously slow, sometimes dangerous and infrequent, but all the same, you are likely to be made to feel welcome among the frogs in baskets and chickens under arm.
