Before the current military regime turned the country into one of the least developed in the world, along with giving it an appalling human rights record, the country was once a cultural capital of Asia and a significant centre for learning and the arts. Fortunately, not all its heritage has been destroyed, and the current political stalemate doesn’t deter those who want to see its ancient sites, stunning scenery and deserted beaches. While its necessary to stick to the military’s prescribed routes, with much of the country off-limits, what you do see will give you a taster of the natural beauty, the resilience of its people and the interesting multiethnic make-up of this former British colony.
Yangon (Rangoon): the busy capital, set on the Yangon River, boasts the reclining Buddha at Chaukhtatgyi Paya, golden Shwedagon Paya (pagoda) and the scenic lakes of Kandawgyi and Inya.
Mandalay: the northern gem is a historical attraction in itself, with the ancient remains of Shwenandaw Kyaung and Mandalay Hill, Mahamuni Paya drawing visitors. Additional ancient ruins lie just outside the city’s boundaries.
Shan State: accessible from Thailand, the Golden Triangle offers a history of opium production, lively markets, ethnic groups and a simple, traditional lifestyle.
Bagan: the ancient city of Bagan offers awe-inspiring scenes of temples which are comparable to Cambodia’s Angkor Wat. Hundreds of chedis dot the landscape next to the Ayeyarwady River.
Bago (Pega): offering equally pleasing pagodas to the ones you will find at Bagan, Bago is home to Shwemawdaw Pagoda, Hintha Gone Pagoda and the Shwethalyaung reclining Buddha.
Pathein (Bassein): this handicraft centre is a great place to pick up souvenirs, while a visit to the Shwemokhtaw Pagoda makes a refreshing change from the bustling city.
Three days in the busy capital Yangon
Three days exploring Mandalay’s ancient sites
Three days soaking up the traditional lifestyle in Shan State
Two days roaming the pagodas of Bagan and Bago
Along with widespread poverty come a lot of beggars and petty thieves, although it is rare for violence against tourists to occur. There is however some fairly brutal suppression of human rights in this country and you could find yourself locked up or worse if you voice any anti-government sentiments. Poor levels of hygiene also contribute to low health records and health risks are plentiful including hepatitis, typhoid, malaria, rabies and cholera. And if you do get sick, the medical facilities are well below standard.
The most common way to reach Burma is by flying into Yangon from Bangkok or Chiang Mai (Thailand) however there are also limited flights from East India, Bangladesh, China, Malaysia and Singapore. Once in the country, domestic Yangon Airways flights can prove useful in a country where the transport network is notoriously difficult to negotiate. One route that is convenient and comfortable is the rail line connecting Yangon with Mandalay. Local travel means are only for the brave hearted, with trishaws, taxis and pickup trucks in various states of disrepair ready to take you where you want to go.
As a large country, the temperatures vary quite dramatically in Burma, with the mountain villages of Kachin State being much cooler than the steamy coast.
The cool season (November to February) is the best time to visit, when daytime temperatures are bearable and nights and very comfortable.
The hot season (March to May) sees temperatures of up to 95ºF, making it tricky to go sightseeing in the heat of the day.
The wet season (June to October) should be avoided, as many of the less developed parts suffer from flooding and disruption to transport.
Touring temples: with some of the most magnificent temple complexes in Asia, a visiting to see Bagan and Bago’s pagodas and chedis is not to be missed.
Scuba diving: Mergui Archipelago (Myeik) is little touched by divers, providing a unique diving experience, and with over 800 islands to explore, you won’t run out bases from which to explore.
Hiking among hill tribes: to get up close to some of Burma’s hill tribes, trek around Inlay Lake in Shan State. The hiking here gives you chance to appreciate the nature and the simple villages around around Kalaw and Pindaya.
Meditation: as a centre for Theravada Buddhism, Burma offers many places that are ideal for meditation retreats. There are numerous centres to choose from, with Mahasi Meditation Centre in Yangon being a popular choice.
Wildlife safaris: with some excellent nature reserves and national parks, visitors can get up close to Burma’s wildlife at popular sites such as Alaungdaw Kathapa National Park, Hlawga National Park and Popa Mountain Park.
The Burmese are a friendly bunch, especially in the rural areas where the people have few resources. Poorly allocated government money means the transport infrastructure here is very basic, unreliable and often overcrowded therefore it’s worth planning you trips well. Hotels vary depending where you are, with some top-end hotels in the capital and at certain resorts, while accommodation in rural areas has few facilities and only basic amenities. Don’t come expecting Olympic size swimming pools and gold taps.
