Epirus ( Ípiros in modern Greek) has the strongest
regional identity in mainland Greece. It owes this character to an
unrelentingly mountainous terrain: the rugged peaks and passes,
forested ravines and turbulent rivers of the Píndhos
(Pindus) range . They have always protected and isolated
Epirus from outside interference, securing it a large measure of
autonomy even under Ottoman rule.
Because of this remoteness, the region's role in Greek affairs
was peripheral in ancient times. There are just four archeological
sites of importance, two of them chosen by oracles for their
isolation. At Dodona , the sanctuary includes a spectacular
Classical theatre; at Ephyra , the weird remains of a
Necromanteion (Oracle of the Dead) was touted by the ancients as
the gateway to Hades. Kassopi and Nikopolis , both
near Préveza, are more conventional ancient cities.
In more recent times, Lord Byron has been the region's
greatest publicist. He passed through in 1809 when tyrannical local
ruler Ali Pasha was at the height of his power, and the poet's
tales of passionate intrigue, fierce-eyed brigandage and
braggadocio sent a shiver down romantic western spines. Byron went
on to distinguish himself in the southern province of
Étolo-Akarnanía by supplying and training troops for the
Greek War of Independence, and of course by dying during it at
Mesolóngi .
Despite eventual Greek victory in the War of Independence, the
Ottomans remained in Epirus, and were not finally ousted until
March 1913. A disputed frontier territory throughout the nineteenth
century, the region never recovered its medieval prosperity. When
the Italians invaded in 1940, followed by the Germans in 1941, the
Pindus mountains became first a stronghold of the Resistance, then
a battleground for rival political factions and finally, after
1946, the chief bastion of the Communist Democratic Army in the
civil war . The events of this period are among the saddest
of modern Greek history, and still reverberate today, not least in
Epirus's consistent ranking in European Union studies as one of the
poorest parts of Western Europe.
However, for visitors the mountains remain the best place
to head for in Epirus. The people - especially away from the most
visited spots - are friendly and hospitable, and certain aspects of
their traditional way of life are still in force. Latinate-speaking
Vlach and Doric-speaking Sarakatsan shepherds continue to bring
their flocks to the high mountain pastures in summer. Bears leave
footprints on riverbanks or raid beehives, risking an (illegal)
bullet in the head, while increasing numbers of wolves keep a
hungry eye out for stray ewes and goats.
The best single area to visit is around mounts Gamíla and
Smólikas , with the Aóös and Víkos gorges to
walk through and the splendid villages of Zagóri to stay in.
You have to explore on foot to get a full flavour of the place, and
not surprisingly the Píndhos has become a popular hiking and
trekking venue, with increasing international caché.
Some of the road itineraries offer less strenuous travelling
highlights - above all the Kalambáka-Ioánnina highway as it
negotiates the Katára pass , though this trunk route will
soon be diverted via a tunnel, one of nearly sixty on the showcase
Via Egnatia motorway , ostensibly due for completion before
the 2004 Olympics but unlikely to be inaugurated before 2007.
Roughly halfway between Ioánnina and the Metéora stands
Métsovo , perhaps the easiest location for a taste of
mountain life, though baldly commercialized of late.
Ioánnina , Ali Pasha's capital, remains a town of some
character, with its island and lake, and the main transport hub for
trips into Zagóri. Other than Árta , prettily set and with
some fine Byzantine churches, there are few urban attractions.
The coast , in both Epirus and Étolo-Akarnanía, is in
general disappointing. Igoumenítsa is a useful ferry
terminal for Corfu and Italy, but otherwise will win few admirers.
Párga , the major Epirot resort, has been developed
beyond its capacity, though Préveza has retained some
character against the odds and is now a major gateway and nightspot
for package-holiday patrons. Between these two towns is a series of
attractive, sandy and not unduly developed beaches , while
just inland beckons a scenic highlight - the gorge of the
Aheróndas River .
South of Préveza, you enter a low, marshy landscape of lakes
and landlocked gulfs hemmed in by bare hills - of interest mainly
to the bird-watcher and fish-dinner enthusiast. For better beach
escapes in this part of the world you need islands, fortunately
close at hand in the Ionian group - Lefkádha is actually
connected to the mainland by a moveable bridge.