Kalambáka to Ioánnina
West of Kalambáka, the 1694-metre Katára pass cuts across the
central chain of the Píndhos to link Thessaly and Epirus. This
route, the only motor road across these mountains kept open in
winter (except during blizzards), is one of the most spectacular in
the country and worth taking for the journey alone. Though
nominally the shortest east-west crossing in Greece, distances here
are deceptive. The road switchbacks and zigzags through folds in
the enormous peaks, which rise to more than 2300m around Métsovo,
and from November to April the snowline must be crossed. All this,
however, will soon be optional, as several enormous tunnels have
been bored through the ridges here as part of the pharaonically
ambitious Via Egnatia expressway, designed to spare drivers
(especially of lorries) the dangerously curvy existing highway.
However, the actual road works - 129km in total from Katára to
Igoumenítsa - have been delayed by the necessity of routing 28km of
the route through nearly sixty expensive tunnels, often linked by
viaducts.
Just two buses daily cover the entire existing route across the
mountains, running between Tríkala and Ioánnina, with stops at
Kalambáka and Métsovo. If you're driving, allow half a day for the
journey from Kalambáka to Ioánnina (114km), and in winter check on
conditions before setting out. Anyone planning on hitching from
Kalambáka should take a lift only if it's going through to Ioánnina
or Métsovo, for there's nothing but forest in between, except for a
few small villages without significant facilities
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