Epirus and the west Travel Guide

World War II and the civil war in Epirus

In November 1940 , the Italians invaded Epirus, pushing down from Albania as far as Kalpáki, just south of Kónitsa. United as a nation for the first time in decades, the Greeks repulsed the attack and humiliated Mussolini. However, the euphoria was short-lived as the following April the Germans attacked and rapidly overran Greece. When parcelling out various portions of the country to their allies for administration, the Germans initially assigned Epirus to the Italians, who trod lightly in the province where they had recently been so soundly beaten. After Mussolini's capitulation in September 1943 the Germans assumed direct responsibility for Epirus, and conditions worsened. Together with the mountains of central Greece to the south, the Epirot Píndhos was the main staging point for various partisan bands , foremost among them the Communist-dominated ELAS . Resistance, harassment and ambush of the occupying forces incurred harsh reprisals, including the burning in early 1944 of essentially every village along the Aóös River.

The wartime flight to the cities from the mountains dates more or less from these atrocities, and the vicissitudes of the subsequent civil war (1946-49) dashed any lingering hope of a reasonable existence in the mountains. Victims of reprisals by either the Communists or the Royalist/Nationalist central government, villagers fled to safety in the cities, and many never returned. In the backcountry, off the tourist-trodden byways, you'll still hear older people talk of these times. Some blame the Communists, some blame the Nationalists and all blame the British: "They set us at each other's throats," many will say, and with some justice.

Since 1975, many men (and a few women) who fought in ELAS, either as volunteers or conscripts, have returned to their villages - some of them after over thirty years of exile in what was the USSR and other East Bloc countries. Numerous others had been carried off as children to Albania, and made to work in labour camps before being distributed to various East European states. The political Right claims that this pedhomázema - the roundup of children - was a cynical and merciless ploy to indoctrinate an army of dedicated revolutionaries for the future. The Left retorts that it was a prudent evacuation of noncombatants from a war zone.

One thing, however, is certain. The Right won, with the backing of the British and, more significantly, the Americans, and they used that victory to maintain an undemocratic and vengeful regime for the best part of the following quarter-century. Many Epirot villagers, regardless of political conviction, believe that the poverty and backwardness in which their communities long remained was a deliberate punishment for being part of Communist-held territory during the civil war. For decades they were constantly harassed by the police, who controlled the issue of all sorts of licences and certificates needed to find public-sector work, to travel, to put children in better schools, to run one's own business and so forth. Only since 1981 have things really changed, and the past finally treated as another, and separate, age

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