Tokyo is hemmed into its coastal location on the Kanto plain by
a ring of mountains and volcanoes, featuring temples, parks and a
couple of bustling towns and cities. It doesn't take long to get
out of the capital - two hours at most - and it's well worth doing,
though if time is short take care to prioritize. The single best
reason for venturing out lies to the north, at Nikko , where
the incredible shrine complex of Tosho-gu , built to deify
the Tokugawa shoguns, is a riotous feast for the senses - you might
dislike its ostentatiousness, but you won't regret making the
journey to see it. The surrounding mountains - fantastic walking
country - are beautiful throughout the year, but particularly so
when decked out in autumn colours. If you can, make time to check
out the spectacular waterfalls nearby, up at the lakes by Chuzenji
and Yumoto, another excellent area for walking and cross-country
skiing.
The temple complex of Naritasan Shinsho-ji , with a
lovely pagoda, extensive gardens, woods and ornamental ponds, is
the highlight of the pilgrim town of Narita , some 60km
northeast of Tokyo, and is certainly the best way of passing time
before catching a flight at the nearby international airport.
Ceramics lovers should not miss out on Mashiko , north of
Tokyo in Tochigi-ken, a pottery town with over three hundred kilns
and associated with the famed craftsman Hamada Shoji and British
potter Bernard Leach. The lively town of Kawagoe , just 40km
northwest of the capital, is known as "Little Edo" and is a great
place to wander through nostalgic nineteenth-century streetscapes,
poke around ancient temples and shrines, and indulge in some
serious souvenir shopping. Sacred Mount Takao , just an hour
west of the capital, provides a more verdant escape for the casual
walker and is the starting point for more serious hikes northwest
to Chichibu National Park.
Also within easy reach of the city is Japan's most famous
landmark, the venerable Mount Fuji , where you might choose
to make the tough ascent up the volcano, or simply relax in the
surrounding countryside. Nearby, the inviting landscapes of the
Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, particularly around Hakone
and south through Izu Hanto , warrant at least two or three
days' exploration.
Closer to Tokyo, the deceptively unassuming town of
Kamakura is one of Japan's major historical sights, home to
several imposing Zen temples and the country's second largest
bronze Buddha, the magnificent Daibutsu . There are also
hiking trails through the surrounding hills, and an enjoyable train
ride further along the coast to the sacred island of Enoshima. Just
north of Kamakura you're back into the urban sprawl where Tokyo
merges with Yokohama , Japan's second largest and most
cosmopolitan city with a smattering of attractions, not least the
gourmet restaurants of Chinatown.