Located roughly midway along the Japanese archipelago, the seven
prefectures of CENTRAL HONSHU , known as Chubu ,
offer a wide choice of terrain and travel possibilities. Dominating
the region are the magnificent Japan Alps , rising up in
Nagano-ken and Gifu-ken, and providing spectacular mountain
scenery, top onsen and ski resorts, old castle and temple towns,
and villages in remote valleys caught in a time warp. Just as
appealing is the rugged northern coast, Hokuriku , which
covers Toyama-ken, Ishikawa-ken and Fukui-ken. Shaped by the savage
waves of the Japan Sea, it feels very much set apart from the rest
of the country. Expressways and train lines plough a direct route
between Tokyo and Kansai through the hideously industrialized
south-coast prefectures of Shizuoka-ken and Aichi-ken, yet even
here there are places worth stopping to see, including Japan's
fourth main city, Nagoya .
Even on the shortest trip, make time for the majestic Japan
Alps, now more accessible than ever, thanks to the new Hokuriku
Shinkansen line that zips from Tokyo to the 1998 Winter Olympics
city of Nagano in one hour and thirty minutes. Nagano's highlight
is its venerable and atmospheric temple, Zenko-ji , while
southeast of the city, close to the summer resort of
Karuizawa , don't miss the stunning lava landscape at
Onioshidashien . Of the region's many skiing and onsen
possibilities, perhaps the best is the charming village of
Nozawa Onsen , northeast of Nagano, where you'll find
excellent slopes and thirteen free hot-spring baths. Northwest of
the city, Togakushi offers ancient shrines surrounded by
spiritual forests, and a wacky Ninja warrior museum.
The focus of the southern half of Nagano-ken is the charming
castle town of Matsumoto , easily reached from Shinjuku
Station in Tokyo. The town is also the jumping-off point for the
remote and pristine Alps resort of Kamikochi , popular with
mountaineers and hikers in summer, and for a handful of
immaculately preserved post towns which line the old Nakasendo
route from Kyoto to Tokyo. Between the best of these -
Tsumago and Magome - is a lovely one-day hiking
route.
Across the Alps, the small convivial city of Takayama is
the centre of the Hida area famous for its skilled carpenters.
Their craftsmanship is evident in many of the preserved houses and
temples of the city, as well as in the unusual A-frame thatched
houses of the nearby Shirakawa-go and Gokayama valleys where
three villages - Ogimachi, Suganuma and Ainokura -
have been designated World Heritage Sites.
Pretty as these villages are, you'll have to stay overnight to
avoid the crowds. The same is true in Kenroku-en, one of Japan's
top three gardens, in the historic and elegant city of Kanazawa, on
the Japan Sea coast. To really escape, head for the tranquil
fishing villages dotted around the rugged coastline of the Noto
Hanto, northeast of Kanazawa, or the thriving Zen Buddhist
community in Eihei-ji, a rambling temple in the forested foothills
of Fukui-ken's mountains, to the south.
While the ugly, urbanized southern coast is generally best
passed through as quickly as possible, Nagoya's Tokugawa Art Museum
is worth a visit, and the city is the main access point for the
attractive castle town of Inuyama, where you can see summertime
displays of the ancient skill of ukai , or cormorant
fishing. Inuyama is also close to the impressive Meiji Mura, a vast
outdoor museum of turn-of-the-century architecture.
Wherever you go in Chubu, there are regional foods to be
sampled, but the dish you'll come across most frequently is soba,
noodles made from buckwheat flour. Nagano is renowned for its fresh
fruit and chestnuts, while the Hida region of neighbouring Gifu-ken
specializes in beef, mountain vegetables ( sansai ) and
miso, fermented bean paste. Ayu river fish are often served in the
inland regions while, on the Japan Sea coast, you should make the
most of the wonderful fresh seafood. Kanazawa has a particularly
refined style of cooking, known as kaga ryori , where each
dish is exquisitely displayed, while in Nagoya the local favourite
is chicken with flat kishimen noodles.
Nagoya is home to Chubu's main airport, but it's more likely
that you'll approach the area by train, either from Tokyo or Kyoto.
A couple of train lines cut across from the southern to the
northern coasts, but many of the places in the mountains are only
served by buses, which can be infrequent and expensive. It's well
worth considering renting a car to tour this area, although note
that some of the most scenic routes, such as the Skyline drive
across the Alps from Gifu-ken to Nagano-ken, are toll roads and are
closed in winter because of deep snow. The mountain resort of
Kamikochi and the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine route are similarly off
limits between November and April