In a country so devoid of flat land, the great rice-growing
plains of KANSAI , the district around Osaka and Kyoto, are
imbued with an almost mystical significance. This was where the
first proto-nation took root, in the historic region known as
Yamato, and where a distinct Japanese civilization evolved from the
strong cultural influences of China and Korea. Kansai people are
tremendously proud of their pivotal role in Japanese history and
tend to look down on Tokyo, which they regard as an uncivilized
upstart. Today, its superb legacy of temples, palaces, shrines,
gardens, sculpture and crafts makes Kansai one of Japan's top
tourist destinations.
The opening in the early 1990s of the spectacular Kansai
International Airport - on a man-made island - created a new
gateway into Japan, but the downturn in the economy, extremely high
landing fees and concerns that the airport is sinking have meant it
has not been the success originally envisaged. Nonetheless, it has
given a significant tourism impetus to Osaka , the country's
second largest metropolis. A much-maligned city, Osaka is not short
of impressive attractions and easily makes up for its superficial
shortcomings with an excess of commercial spirit - the source of
its long-established wealth - and an unqualified love of eating,
drinking and general bonhomie. Even on the briefest stay in Kansai
you won't be disappointed if you spend time visiting the city's
fabulous aquarium , the handsomely restored castle
Osaka-jo and the laudable Liberty Osaka , an
uncompromising civil rights museum.
From Osaka, you could also take a trip out to Takarazuka
, home of an eponymous show-stopping all-female musical drama
troupe and the imaginative Tezuka Osamu Manga Museum ,
celebrating a Japanese master of comic-book art.
Though Kyoto is nowhere near as big as Osaka, it's still
a major city, which keeps many of its charms hidden from view. You
could spend a lifetime exploring Kyoto's bewildering array of
ancient Buddhist temples and gorgeously decorated
imperial palaces wrapped round with exquisite gardens
. Until Emperor Meiji decamped for the bright lights of Tokyo in
1868, Kyoto was Japan's imperial capital and to this day represents
the last word in cultural refinement. Its elaborate cuisine,
traditional theatre, even its everyday crafts, reflect this
incomparable lineage. To avoid cultural overload, it's best to take
Kyoto in small chunks, and to spend at least one day in the
surrounding districts. Hiei-zan , in particular, offers not
only majestic temples but also an escape from the city streets,
while in Uji 's Byodo-in you'll find one of the country's
supreme architectural masterpieces.
Before Kyoto even existed, the monks of Nara were busily
erecting their great monuments to Buddha under the patronage of an
earlier group of princes and nobles. This relaxed, appealing town
holds the distinction of being Japan's first permanent capital,
founded in the early eighth century. A surprising number of
buildings survive, notably the great Todai-ji with its
colossal bronze Buddha, but Nara's real glory lies in its wealth of
statues. Nowhere is this more evident than the nearby temple
complex of Horyu-ji , a treasure trove of early Japanese
art.
South of Nara, the monasteries of Koya-san provide a
glimpse into contemporary religious practice in Japan. This
mountaintop retreat - the headquarters of the Shingon Buddhist sect
- has been an active centre of pilgrimage since the ninth century.
The monks welcome people of all faiths to stay in their quiet old
temples and join in the morning prayer service. Afterwards you can
walk through the ancient Okunoin cemetery to visit the grave
of Shingon's founder, Kobo Daishi, wreathed in incense smoke under
the towering cryptomeria trees.
With so many major Buddhist foundations in the Kansai area, it's
sometimes hard to remember that Shinto is Japan's native religion.
But the balance is redressed over on the far east side of the
district, where Ise-jingu represents one of the country's
most important Shinto monuments. The Grand Shrine of Ise, as it's
known, is dedicated to Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess, from whom all
Japan's emperors are descended. Ise itself is the gateway to
an attractive neck of land called Shima Hanto . Though the
area has no dramatic sights, the lovely island-speckled bay of
Ago-wan makes a rewarding destination for boat rides through
its unspoiled scenery.
The port of Kobe , now well recovered from 1995's
devastating earthquake, is less than thirty minutes west of Osaka,
in a dramatic location on the edge of Osaka Bay. Its sights are
less of a draw than its relaxed cosmopolitan atmosphere, best
experienced in a stroll around Kobe's shops and harbourside
developments. Close by is the ancient hot-spring resort, Arima
Onsen , which has managed to retain a little old-world
rusticity alongside the modern hotel developments.
Wherever you choose to stay in Kansai, don't miss the
opportunity to visit Himeji , on the area's western edge, to
explore Himeji-jo , Japan's most impressive castle. Himeji
also has a couple of intriguing museums in buildings designed by
top contemporary architects and the lovely Himeji Koko-en ,
nine connected gardens laid out according to traditional
principles.
The most convenient way of getting around the Kansai
district is by train. The area is crisscrossed by a skein of
competing JR and private rail lines, while the Tokaido Shinkansen
provides a high-speed service between Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe and
Himeji. If you plan to travel intensively round the region, you
might want to investigate JR-West's Kansai Area Pass. Valid for
either one or four days, the pass allows unlimited travel on all
local services operated by JR West, but excluding the Shinkansen.
For those travelling on to Fukuoka, the San'yo Area Pass covers JR
services from Kansai Airport via Osaka, Kobe and Himeji
.