When the famous poet Matsuo Basho set out on his travels along
the "narrow road to the deep north" in 1689, he commented, somewhat
despondently, "I might as well be going to the ends of the earth."
Even today, many urban Japanese regard the harsh, mountainous
provinces of NORTHERN HONSHU as irredeemably backward. Not
that it's all thatched farmhouses and timeless agricultural vistas,
but certainly the rural traditions have survived here longer than
in most other parts of the country. However, it doesn't take long
to discover the region's particularly vibrant crafts
industry and huge array of festivals . Nor do you have to
delve much deeper to find the rich heritage of folk-tales and
evidence of ancient religious practices which give parts of north
Honshu a deliciously mysterious tang.
Northern Honshu, or Tohoku as it's often called (encompassing
the six prefectures covered here with the exception of Niigata),
was the last part of Japan's main island to be brought under
central control. As such, it boasts more in the way of military
sights - ruined castles, samurai towns and aristocratic
tombs - than great temples or religious foundations. The one
glorious exception is Hiraizumi , a seemingly insignificant
town north of Sendai , whose opulent Golden Hall
(Konjiki-do) is the highlight of any tour round this region. By way
of contrast, perhaps the archetypal north-country town lies not far
away, at Tono . It's often referred to as the birthplace of
Japanese folklore, where goblin-like kappa inhabit local
rivers and fairy children scamper through old farmhouses. Much of
this is heavily commercialized, but it's still worth devoting a
couple of days to exploring Tono's more secretive shrines with
their references to primitive cults. Darker forces are also at work
much further north where souls in purgatory haunt Osore-zan
's volcanic wasteland on the hammer head Shimokita Hanto. In
summer, pilgrims come here to consult blind mediums, while over on
the west coast the holy mountain of Dewa-sanzan is home to
yamabushi , ascetic priests who are similarly endowed with
mystical powers.
The region is also defined by its splendid scenery ,
ranging from prolific rice-fields and cosseted orchards to the
wild, rugged coastline, and the pine-crusted islands of
Matsushima Bay . The central spine of magnificent empty
mountains provides excellent opportunities for hiking and skiing,
notably around Bandai-san in the south and the more
northerly Towada-Hachimantai area. Both national parks,
these areas are noted for their flora and fauna, including black
bears in remoter districts, while Towada-ko itself is a
massive crater lake accessed via the picturesque Oirase
valley . In Sado-ga-shima , a large island lying off
Niigata, dramatic mountain and coastal scenery provides the
backdrop for a surprisingly rich culture - a legacy of its
isolation and a number of famous, or infamous, characters who were
exiled to the island.
Although there are good transport links between the main
cities, including Shinkansen lines to Tokyo, you need to allow
plenty of time to explore the more remote corners of northern
Honshu - this is one place where car rental is definitely worth
considering. Public buses can be sporadic at the best of times,
with many services stopping completely in winter, when heavy
snowfalls close the mountain roads. Apart from ski resorts,
many tourist facilities outside the major cities shut down from
early November to late April. In general, the best time to
visit is either spring or autumn, before it gets too busy and
while the scenery is at its finest, though the uplands also provide
welcome relief from summer's sweltering heat. Note, however, that
early August brings thousands of people flocking to Tohoku's big
four festivals in Sendai, Aomori, Hirosaki and Akita. If
you're travelling at this time, make sure you've got your transport
and accommodation sorted out well in advance.
JR offers a variety of special rail tickets covering the
Tohoku district. JR East operates three schemes similar to the
regular JR Pass
. Their four-day, five-day and ten-day passes are valid on all JR
trains, including the Shinkansen, from Izu and Nagano to the
northern tip of Honshu. Of these, the four-day pass is the most
useful, since it is valid for any four days within a month, rather
than a consecutive period, so you can save it to cover longer train
journeys within the region. Note that these passes are only
available to those on a "temporary visitor" visa and must be
purchased outside Japan. The ten-day Tohoku Wide Pass can be bought
in Japan and covers all JR trains and buses within the Tohoku
region, including travel from Tokyo but excluding Shinkansen
trains. However, the ten days must run consecutively, and to get
your money's worth you'll have to take a number of long journeys
within this period.