The prefecture of Okinawa comprises more than one hundred
islands, stretching over 700km of ocean from Kyushu southwest to
Yonaguni-jima, almost within sight of Taiwan. Collectively known as
the Ryukyu Shoto , this chain of subtropical islands, with
their lush vegetation, paradise beaches and superb coral reefs, has
become a popular destination for Japanese holiday-makers and
foreign residents alike. Few other tourists make it down here,
partly because of the time and cost involved, but if you've had
your fill of shrines and temples, want to check out some of Japan's
best beaches and dive sites
, or simply fancy a spot of winter sun, then Okinawa is well worth
considering.
The largest island in the group, Okinawa-Honto , usually
referred to simply as Okinawa, is the region's transport hub and
home to its prefectural capital, Naha . It's also the most
heavily populated and developed of the Ryukyu chain, thanks largely
to the controversial presence of American military bases
. While it's the remoter islands that are worth concentrating on -
particularly the Yaeyama group centred around Ishigaki-jima -
Okinawa-Honto boasts a number of historical sights, many of them
associated with the Battle of Okinawa at the end of the
Pacific War
. But the island has more to offer, particularly in its northern
region, where the old way of life still survives among the isolated
villages.
To see the best of the region, you have to hop on a plane or
ferry and explore the dozens of outer islands , many of
which are uninhabited. Even quite close to Naha, you'll find
gorgeous beaches and fantastic dive spots around the Kerama
islands , just 30km off the main island. Divers and beach
connoisseurs will want to visit Miyako-jima and
Ishigaki-jima , way down the Ryukyu chain, where tiny
star-shaped shells dust the sand. If you're looking for an idyllic
retreat, Taketomi-jima can't be beaten, while the
adventurous will want to explore Iriomote-jima , coated in
thick groves of mangrove and steamy rainforest and home to the
elusive Iriomote lynx.
It's on these outer islands that you'll also find the strongest
evidence of the much-vaunted Ryukyu culture , born of
contact with Taiwan and China, as well as Japan. The most obvious
features are different types of food
a vibrant use of colour, and bold, tropical patterns, while the
Chinese influence is clearly visible in the architecture,
traditional dress and the martial art of karate - the Ryukyu
warriors preferred mode of protection. Ancient religious beliefs
are kept alive by shamen (called yuta ) and, on
Okinawa-Honto, there are sumo bouts between bulls. There's also a
Ryukyu dialect, with dozens of variations between the different
islands, unique musical instruments, and a distinctive musical
style which has captured an international audience through bands
such as Nenes, Diamantes and Champloose. If you're lucky, you'll
stumble on a local festival, such as giant rope tug-of-war contests
or dragon-boat races, while the biggest annual event is the
Eisa festival (15th of the seventh lunar month) when
everyone downs tools and dances to the incessant rhythms of drums,
flutes and the three-stringed sanshin .
Those in search of local crafts will find beautiful
Bingata textiles the most appealing. Originally reserved for
court ladies, Bingata fabrics are hand-dyed with natural
pigments from hibiscus flowers and various vegetables, in simple
but striking patterns. Also worth searching out are the fine
jofu cloths of Miyako-jima and the Yaeyama Islands, once
gifted in tribute to the local monarchs. Ceramics are thought to
have been introduced to the region from Spain and Portugal in the
fifteenth century, but Ryukyu potters concentrated on roof tiles
and fairly rustic utensils. Nowadays, they churn out thousands of
sake flasks and shiisa - the ferocious lion figures that
glare down at you from every rooftop. The exquisite local
lacquerware has a long history in the islands, too, having been
introduced over 500 years ago from China, but the glassware you'll
find is much more recent: it's said production took off in the
postwar years when Okinawans set about recycling the drinks bottles
of the occupying US forces.
Besides Hokkaido, Okinawa contains Japan's largest areas of
unspoilt natural environment and greatest biodiversity. Much of
this wealth of wildlife is underwater, spawned by the warm
Kuroshio current that sweeps up the east coast and allows coral
reefs to flourish. But on land, too, there are a number of unique
species, including turtles, a crested eagle and the noguchigera
(Pryer's woodpecker), in addition to Iriomote's wild cat, the
yamaneko. A less welcome local resident is the highly poisonous
habu snake . It measures around 2m in length, is dark green
with a yellow head, and usually lurks in dense vegetation or on
roadsides, though rarely ventures into urban areas. As long as
you're careful - especially during spring and autumn - you should
have no problems, but if you are bitten, make for the nearest
hospital where they should have anti-venom.
With its subtropical climate , Okinawa stays warm
throughout the year. Average annual temperatures are around 23°C,
with a winter average of 17°C and a minimum of 10°C. Winter lasts
from December through February, while the hot, humid summer starts
in April and continues into September. Temperatures at this time
hover around 34°C and the sun can be pretty intense, though the sea
breezes help. The best time to visit is in spring or autumn,
roughly March to early May and late September to December. The
rainy season lasts from early May to early June, while typhoons can
be a problem in July and August, and occasionally into October.
One of the more unusual ways of getting to Okinawa - and
Japan - is to take the international ferry from Taiwan via
Ishigaki and Miyako islands to Naha
. By far the majority of visitors, however, arrive by plane. Most
come from the Japanese mainland, though there are international
flights to Naha from Taiwan, Korea and Hong Kong. Domestic
airlines operate between Naha and Tokyo, Osaka and a number of
other Japanese cities
, while a few fly direct to Ishigaki and Miyako. Though flying can
be expensive, discounts are becoming increasingly common, so it's
always worth asking the airlines and travel agents. Overseas
visitors can also take advantage of the airpasses offered by JAL
and ANA
.
The other option is a local ferry from Tokyo, Osaka, Kobe
or one of several cities on Kyushu. All of these services stop in
Naha, from where some continue to Miyako and Ishigaki
. These ferries can be a great way to travel if you're not in a
hurry, though horribly crowded in the peak summer season.
Getting around between islands presents a similar choice
between air and sea, with Naha as the main hub. Inter-island
flights are operated by Japan Transocean Air (JTA), Ryukyu
Air Commuter (RAC) and Air Nippon (ANK), with connections to all
the major islands. The ferry network, on the other hand,
fans out from Naha's three terminals to every corner of the
prefecture, allowing you to island-hop at your leisure. See
individual island accounts for more about these sailings.