The valleys of the Douro and its tributaries are among
the most spectacular landscapes in Portugal, and the Douro Valley
itself, a narrow, winding gorge for the majority of its long route
east to the Spanish border, is the most beautiful of all. The Douro
rail route , which joins the river about 60km inland and
then sticks to it across the country, is one of those journeys that
needs no justification other than the trip itself. At present there
are quite regular connections along the line as far as Peso da
Régua, though you will most likely find yourself on a single
carriage train; beyond Régua, there are less frequent connections
to Tua and Pocinho.
Cete, half a dozen stations out of Oporto, is just a mile away
from the village of PAÇO DE SOUSA , a former headquarters of
the Benedictines in Portugal and a popular picnic spot for Oporto
locals. If you're looking for a bed, it's not much further down the
line to Penafiel station, connected by bus to the village itself.
Split by main-road traffic, PENAFIEL is not that enticing a
place, but it has a saving grace in its fabulous local vinho
verde wine, served from massive barrels in the adega in
the central Largo do Padré Américo. Fado's restaurant still
has barrels but is quite smart - the owner will sing fado at
weekends if you're lucky; above is the best and cheapest
hotel , Casa João da Lixa (tel 255 215 158;
£5-10/$8-16/€9-18).
At Livração, about an hour from Oporto, the Tâmega line cuts off
for Amarante in the mountains. Shortly after, the main line finally
reaches the Douro and heads upstream until, at Mesão Frio, the
valley broadens into the little plain commanded by PESO DA
RÉGUA , the depot through which port wine must pass on its way
from Pinhão - the centre of production - to Oporto. The tiny
tourist office (summer daily 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm;
winter Mon-Fri only; tel 254 313 846), 1km from the train station,
can inform you about visits to local cellars. Apart from these
alcoholic diversions, there's not much to do except wander through
the upper village and along the river. If you need to stay, the
high-rise Pensão Império at Rua José Vasques Osório 8 (tel
254 320 120; £15-20/$24-32/€27-36) offers good accommodation
, breakfast and views, and Pensão Borrajo on Rua Dos Camilos
near the post office, is basic but cheap (tel 254 233 396;
£10-15/$16-24/€18-27). There are plenty of restaurants along
the main street.
Beyond Peso da Régua begin the terraced slopes where the
port vines are grown: they look their best in August, with
the grapes ripening, and in September when the harvest has begun.
The country continues in this vein, craggy and beautiful, with the
softer hills of the interior fading dark green into the distance,
to Tua (junction for the Tua line) and Pocinho, where buses take
over for routes east towards Miranda do Douro. From there it's a
straightforward hitch in summer to Zamora in Spain.