For most people, surfing in Britain means surfing in Newquay,
and while it's true that the southwest of England is the heartland
of the British surf scene , it would be a mistake to think
that there aren't decent waves elsewhere. You don't get the
sunshine of Hawaii, and the waves are steely-grey rather than
turquoise-blue, but there are world-class waves to be found if you
know where to go. The major difference between Britain and the
States or Australia, of course, is the water temperature, which
even in mid-summer rarely exceeds 15°C, and in winter can drop to
as low as 7°C or colder (on the north coast of Scotland you're
surfing at the same latitude as Alaska and Iceland). For this
reason, if you're planning to surf in the UK - particularly in
winter - make sure you have a good wetsuit, and ideally a 5/3mm
"steamer", wetsuit boots and, outside summer, gloves and a hood.
You'll also need a shedload of enthusiasm to get out into the
waves, although when you do eventually paddle out, you may be
pleasantly surprised.
In England , the northeast coast, from Yorkshire to
Northumberland, has a growing population of hardy surfers willing
to endure low temperatures to surf clean northerly groundswells.
The coastline here is often spectacular, and although the more
popular breaks, such as Saltburn, are now crowded, you can find
relative isolation off the beaten track. Nevertheless, the
southwest, or more specifically Newquay, Cornwall, remains the
country's undisputed surf Mecca. Visitors are often amazed to see
the hype surrounding this self-styled "surf city". In summer, every
other male seems to be a "surfie", sporting regulation bleached
hair and designer gear, but the majority only turn up to cruise
surf babes. It can still be hectic out in the water though,
especially at the main break, Fistral, which regularly hosts
international contests. Head out of town, however, and things
quieten down noticeably. Try spots such as Perranporth or Polzeath,
or travel up to Devon, which also gets decent waves, despite the
overcrowding of its main break, Croyde.
Surfing in Wales tends to be concentrated on the south
coast, around the Gower peninsula, which boasts a good variety of
beach and reef breaks, and a lively social scene. One thing to bear
in mind if you surf here, though, is the enormous tidal range of
the Bristol Channel - it can be up to thirteen metres, and this can
have a major effect on the surf. The tidal range drops as you head
west towards Pembrokeshire, where the coastline becomes more
scenic, and numbers in the water diminish considerably. This area,
comprising Britain's only coastal national park, is where you'll
find the most consistent surf beach in Wales, Freshwater West, as
well as seals, porpoise, dolphins, basking sharks and sunfish in
the water. Washed by the Irish Sea, the west coast gets much less
surf than the south, with the waves breaking mostly in winter.
Aberystwyth is the main centre hereabouts, and its local breaks
tend to be pretty busy. Heading further north, you come to the Llyn
peninsula, in the shadow of Snowdonia, where Hell's Mouth has the
best and most consistent waves in North Wales, drawing lots of
weekend surfers from northern England throughout the year.
Scotland may not seem the most promising destination for
surfers, but it is fast gaining a reputation for the high quality
of its breaks. The number one spot is Thurso on the north coast,
which has hosted the European Surfing Championships, and has what
is widely acknowledged to be one of the finest reef breaks in
Europe. Elsewhere along this coastline are waves which compare to
those of Hawaii, Australia and Indonesia. Nor do you have to go all
the way to Thurso to get tubed. Many of the best breaks lie within
easy reach of large cities (eg Pease Bay, near Edinburgh, and
Fraserburgh, near Aberdeen), while the spectacular west coast has
numerous possibilities: try Sandwood Bay, the most isolated beach
in Britain, or the waves of the Outer Hebrides. All are surrounded
by stunning scenery, and you'd be unlucky to encounter another
surfer for miles, which is an important consideration in itself.
The fact that many of the breaks are quite isolated, the water is
cold, and the surf often big and powerful means that, in general,
Scottish surf is best left to experienced surfers. If you're a
beginner, get local advice before you go in and be aware of your
limitations; remember, if you get caught in a current off the west
coast the next stop might be Iceland.