Tierra del Fuego Travel Guide

Hunters turned hunted: The Selk'nam

In 1580, Sarmiento de Gamboa became the first European to witness the Selk'nam themselves. He was impressed by these "Big People", with their powerful frames, guanaco robes, and conical goöchilh headgear. It was not long before their defiant nature became evident, and the bloody skirmish with a Dutch expedition in 1599 proved them to be superb warriors, a fact long known by the Yámana, who feared the people they called the Ona .

Selk'nam society revolved around the hunting of the guanaco , a species they used not just for meat: the skins were made into moccasins and capes; the bones were used for fashioning arrowheads, and the sinews for bowstrings. Hunting was done on foot, and they relied on stealth and teamwork to encircle guanacos, bringing them down with bow and arrow, a weapon with which they were expert. These proved to be of limited use, however, in preventing the invasion of white settlers at the end of the nineteenth century.

Selk'nam culture must bear some of the blame for its own demise. The tribe had always embraced violence to an extent, and the Selk'nam terrified other groups with their occasional sudden, devastating raids. Access to guns meant these conflicts became increasingly bitter and bloody. Later, when the Selk'nam realized the survival of their race was in jeopardy, a general truce was called, but not before it was too late. A covert campaign of systematic genocide began with the arrival of sheep-farming concerns. Hundreds of miles of wire fencing were erected, which the Selk'nam, unsurprisingly, resented, seeing it as an incursion into their ancestral hunting lands; however, they soon aquired a taste for hunting these slow, stupid animals which they referred to as white guanaco . For the settlers, this was an unpardonable crime and represented a drain on their investment. The Selk'nam were painted as "barbarous savages", who constituted an obstacle to settlement and progress. Soon, isolated incidents of attack and retaliation had escalated into bloody conflict. In a gruesome inversion of the contemporary white prejudice, it was the whites themselves who assumed the role of headhunters . Reliable sources point to prices being paid to bounty hunters on receipt of grisly invoices: a pair of severed ears (later to be modified to the whole head, after earless Selk'nam began to be seen roaming the countryside). Bonuses were paid for pregnant women. The headhunters were paid £1 sterling per "trophy" - the same price as for a puma - and some purchasers made a handsome profit, by selling the heads to Europe's museums. Sheep and whale carcasses were laced with strychnine to poison unsuspecting Selk'nam, and there were reports of hunting with trained dogs and even of injecting captured children with infectious diseases.

The assault on Selk'nam culture, too, was abrupt and devastating, led by the "civilizing" techniques of the Salesian missions, who were paid £5 sterling by landowners for each Selk'nam that they "rehoused" in one of their missions. In 1881, at the beginning of the colonizing phase of Tierra del Fuego's history, some 3500 Selk'nam lived on Isla Grande. Fifteen hundred were forced into the Salesian Candelaria mission in Río Grande in 1897, and many were then deported from their homeland to the mission on Isla Dawson , south of Punta Arenas. By 1911, an estimated 300 Selk'nam remained, but a measles epidemic in 1925 proved the effective death knell of the tribe. By the late 1920s, there were probably no indigenous Selk'nam living as their forefathers had done. The survivors had no alternative but acculturization. Lucas Bridges writes of the unparalleled skill of the Selk'nam as shepherds and shearers, but comments that: "Those Indians who avoided hard work soon became 'poor whites'." When pure-blooded Lola Kiepje and Esteban Yshton passed away in 1966 and 1969 respectively, Selk'nam culture died with them.

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