Update: Argentina has been getting bad press since
December 2001 - a year after the first edition of The Rough
Guide to Argentina was published. Media headlines have made the
country sound dangerously chaotic, but things have definitely
calmed down. It's still a fabulous country to visit and, apart from
the occasional flare-up related to the economic crisis, tourism has
been pretty much business as usual in 2002. In fact, domestic
tourism has actually benefited as previously wealthy Argentines can
no longer afford trips to Miami, Brazil and the Dominican Republic.
The major change to watch out for is the devalued peso. It's no
longer interchangeable with the US dollar, so you'll have to keep
an eye on the exchange rate - on the whole you should get about two
pesos to the dollar. This means that Argentina no longer seems
exorbitantly pricey compared with neighbouring countries - for
example, you can now get a full lunch for under $5. Though imported
products and some services aimed specifically at tourists have
suffered price hikes, this amazingly varied country, with its
snow-capped Andes, humid jungle and penguin colonies is still a
major destination for travellers. At the time of writing, one
Argentine peso was equal to exactly one US dollar. Recent political
upheaval, however, has led to a major devaluation of the peso and
rapidly fluctuating exchange rates. Please keep this in mind when
referring to any mention of costs throughout this guide.
- Andrew Benson
Argentina is a vast country. It measures 5000km by 1500km
and, even without the titanic wedge of Antarctica that the
authorities are wont to include in the national territory, it ranks
as the world's eighth largest state, immediately behind India.
Thanks to its longitudinal position, standing between the Tropic of
Cancer and the most southerly reaches of the planet's landmass, the
country encompasses a staggering diversity of climates and
landscapes. The mainland points down like a massive stalactite on
the map, from the hot and humid jungles of its northeast and
the bone-dry highland steppes of its northwest down through
windswept Patagonia to the end-of-the-world archipelago of
Tierra del Fuego , a territory that is shared with Chile.
Across the broad midriff stretch Argentina's most archetypal
landscapes: the mostly flat pampas grazed by millions of
cattle - subtly beautiful scenery formed by horizon-to-horizon
plains interspersed with low sierras, and punctuated by small
agricultural towns, the odd ranch and countless clumps of pampas
grass. These wide open spaces are among the country's best assets -
despite its mammoth area its population of 33 million weighs
in at far less than Spain's. This is a land with huge swaths still
waiting to be explored let alone settled.
Like Chile to its west - with which it shares 5000km of
grandiose Andean cordillera, several of whose colossal peaks exceed
6000m - Argentina is, for the most part, less obviously exotic than
its neighbours to the north, and its inhabitants will readily (and
rightly) tell you how great an influence Europe has been on their
nation. It was once said that Argentina is actually the most
American of all European countries, but even that clever maxim is
wide of the mark. It's a country with a very special character all
of its own, distilled into the national ideal of
Argentinidad - an elusive identity the country's Utopian
thinkers and practical doers have never agreed upon. Undoubtedly,
the people of Argentina suffer from, but also encourage to an
extent, some of the world's most sweeping generalizations, based
mainly on the typical Porteño , or native of Buenos Aires.
They suffer from a bad press in the rest of the continent, but
you're bound to be wowed by their spontaneous curiosity and intense
passion for so many things. On this score there's a lot of truth in
the clichés - their passions are dominated by the national
religion of football , politics and living life in the fast
lane (literally, when it comes to driving) - but not everyone
dances the tango , or is obsessed with Evita , or
gallops around on a horse, gaucho-style . Whether thanks to
their beauty, sense of humour or other charms, the locals will help
to make any trip to the country memorable.
So aside from the people, why visit Argentina? First, because
the huge metropolis of Buenos Aires , home to two-fifths of
the population, is one of the most exciting, charming and
fascinating of all South American capitals. It's an immensely
enjoyable place just to wander about, stopping off for an espresso
or an ice cream, or people-watching, or shopping, or simply soaking
up the unique atmosphere. Its many barrios, or neighbourhoods, are
startlingly different, some decadently old-fashioned, others
thrustingly modern, but all of them oozing character. Added to
that, Buenos Aires is the country's gastronomic mecca and boasts a
frenzied nightlife that makes it one of the world's great
round-the-clock cities. Elsewhere, cities aren't exactly the main
draw, with the exception of beautiful Salta in the
northwest, the beguiling river-port of Rosario - birthplace
of Che Guevara - and Ushuaia which, in addition to being the
world's most southerly city, happens to enjoy a fabulous setting on
the evocatively named Tierra del Fuego.
Wildlife and adventure in the extensive outback are the
real attractions outside of the capital. By hopping on a plane it's
feasible to spot howler monkeys and toucans in their jungle habitat
in the morning, and watch the antics of penguins tobogganing off
dark rocks into the icy South Atlantic in the afternoon. There are
hundreds of bird species - including the majestic condor and three
varieties of flamingo - plus pumas, armadillos, llamas, foxes and
tapirs to be found in the country's forests, mountainsides and the
dizzying heights of the altiplano or puna. Lush tea-plantations and
parched salt-flats, palm groves and icebergs, plus the world's
mightiest waterfalls are just some of the sights that will catch
you unawares if you were expecting Argentina to be one big
cattle-ranch. Furthermore, dozens of these vital biosystems are
protected by a pioneering network of national and provincial
parks and reserves , staffed by remarkably motivated
rangers.
As for getting around and seeing these wonders, you can
generally rely on a well-developed infrastructure inherited from
decades of domestic tourism. And the challenge of reaching those
areas off the beaten track is more than compensated by the
exhilarating feeling of getting away from it all that comes from,
say, not passing another vehicle all day long. Hotels are often
much of a muchness, but a special treat - and not excessively
expensive by any means - are the beautiful ranches, known as
estancias - or fincas in the north - that have been
converted into luxury accommodation. In most areas, you'll be able
to rely on the services of top-notch tour operators, who will not
only show you the sights but also fix you up with all kinds of
adventure activities: horse-riding, trekking, white-water
rafting, kayaking, skiing, hang-gliding , along with more
relaxing pursuits such as wine-tasting, bird-watching or
photography safaris . While some visitors prefer to whiz
about the country using an airpass, others like to enjoy the
astounding scenery, magnificent wildlife and sensation of
remoteness at a much slower pace. Argentina is so huge and varied
that it's hard to take it all in in one go - don't be surprised if
you find yourself wanting to return to explore the areas you didn't
get to see the first time around.