A land of adventures and adventurers, of myths and fabulous
reality - the only thing that parallels Patagonia's geographical
immensity is the size of its reputation. As a region of contrasts
and extremes it has few equals in the world: from the biting winds
that howl off the Hielo Continental Sur (Southern Patagonian
Icecap) to the comforting hearthside warmth of old-time Patagonian
hospitality; from the lowest point on the South American continent,
the Gran Bajo de San Julián , to the savage peaks of the
Fitz Roy massif or San Lorenzo ; from the sterile
desert plains of the coastline to the astoundingly rich marine
breeding grounds which abut them, among which the Península
Valdés is the crowned king.
The term "Patagonia" was formerly used to refer to all lands on
both sides of the Andes that lay to the south of the southernmost
white settlement. On the Argentinian side this once signified, in
effect, any land south of Buenos Aires, though as the whites gained
control of increasing amounts of indigenous territory, so
Patagonia's frontiers were pushed ever southwards. By the
nineteenth century, the concept of Patagonia had begun to take on a
more fixed location, one which is usually defined today as all
lands to the south of Argentina's Río Colorado and Chile's
Río Bio Bio . This section deals with all of Argentinian
Patagonia, with the exception of Tierra del Fuego and the
northwestern Lake District, and also includes a section on the deep
south of mainland Chilean Patagonia.
The region's principal artery, the RN3 , runs south from
the historic town of Carmen de Patagones right across
Patagonia to Río Gallegos and the border with Chile,
providing access to the narrow fringe of Atlantic coastline plus
the vast central steppe. This desiccated area, covered by tough
coirón grassland and scrub, is grey and dusty for most of
the year, except for brief periods when spring rains bring forth
green shoots and isolated carpets of yellow flowers. The few poplar
and willow trees that exist shelter sheep-farming estancias or
cling to the banks of the rare rivers that run eastwards from the
Andes. From these plains rise spectacular, eroded mesetas,
punctuated by areas of genuine desert.
South of Carmen de Patagones, the principal highlight of Chubut
Province is the fabulous wildlife reserve of Península
Valdés , where rare marine mammals breed in their thousands
between July and April. Nearby is the resort town of Puerto
Madryn and, just to the south, the valley of the Río
Chubut , where you can explore the cultural legacy of the Welsh
pioneers in the villages of Gaiman and Dolavon , and
at the town of Trelew , Welsh by name if less obviously by
nature.
South of Trelew, up to a million birds nest at the continent's
largest penguin colony, Punta Tombo . West of the region's
industrial hub, Comodoro Rivadavia , lies the peaceful
farming community of Sarmiento , and its petrified forests,
set in eerie moonscapes. South of Comodoro, in Santa Cruz Province,
are the spectacular porphyry cliffs of the estuary at Puerto
Deseado , famous for its colourful colonies of seabirds and its
playful Commerson's dolphins, while another detour off the RN3
brings you to the 150-million-year-old petrified trees of the
Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados . Passing the
unhurried port of San Julián you come to sites where
dedicated fly- fishermen with daily budgets ranging from $10 to
$1000 come from around the globe, in particular the Río
Gallegos , a river which meets the sea at the town of the same
name.
The second principal artery of Argentine Patagonia is the famous
- and largely unpaved - RN40 , which runs parallel to the
Andes, at a distance of roughly 90km. Detours off the RN40 provide
access to the western fringe of the vast desert steppe and to the
area right up against the Andes, where the scenery changes
abruptly: in many spots here you'll find forests of southern beech.
Although some places are difficult to reach, this western fringe is
where you'll find the most impressive of Argentine Patagonia's
great lakes and national parks, as well as the finest spit-roast
lamb asados and some uniquely wild skies. Taking the RN40
south from Esquel brings you to the first-rate trout-fishing lakes
in the Río Pico area and the mighty Lago Buenos Aires
, with its useful border crossing point into Chile. South of Lago
Buenos Aires you'll find the canyon of Río Pinturas, home to one of
Argentina's most famous archeological sites, the Cueva de las
Manos Pintadas , with its striking, 10,000-year-old rock art;
west of here are the beautiful Lagos Posadas and
Pueyrredón , lying in a largely unexplored area which
contains the stately peak of San Lorenzo. Just to the south of here
stretches the wilderness of Parque Nacional Perito Moreno ,
one of the most inaccessible of Argentina's national parks, with
the aquamarine gem of Lago Belgrano and excellent trekking
possibilities. Beyond here are two of the region's star
attractions: the trekkers' and climbers' paradise of the Fitz
Roy sector of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares ,
accessed from El Chaltén; and the craggy blue face of the Perito
Moreno glacier , regularly cited as one of the world's natural
wonders, situated near the town of El Calafate. Between these two
sites lie two gigantic lakes fed by the Southern Patagonian Icecap
- Lago Viedma and Lago Argentino .
Finally, we cover the deep south of Chilean Patagonia around the
area of Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales, including the spectacular
Torres del Paine national park. In these southernmost
latitudes, the lands are not quite as parched, and even the odd
tongue of woodland begins to stretch away from the mountains.
The area's tourist infrastructure has expanded considerably over
the last ten years, but it is still primitive in many areas: if
planning to visit the lesser-known sites you'll need reserves of
patience and flexibility, both in terms of time and style of
travel. Barring a few exceptions, such as Carmen de Patagones, the
region's towns are not tourist destinations in themselves.
Set out on a uniform grid pattern, they are generally uninspiring,
low-key places with little overriding architectural style, few
sights, and little in the way of distinct character. Most are
useful only as transport hubs or bases for tours in the surrounding
area.
High season runs from December to the end of February,
and it's important to book accommodation and other services in
advance during this period. November is a pleasant month to visit,
although the winds that scour Patagonia are at their most
unremitting. The period from March to Easter can be one of the most
rewarding in which to travel: most tourist services are still open,
but you'll avoid the crowds, while the Patagonian forests along the
Andean spine assume their autumnal colours and the winds are less
incessant. Close season runs from Easter to around the end
of October. At this time, temperatures can plummet to -25°C, and
many mountain roads become impassable. Public transport becomes
extremely infrequent and there's very little tourist traffic, with
the exception of those who visit Península Valdés to see the
breeding of the southern right whales and sea elephants.
Though cheaper than in the early 1990s, Patagonia is still
renowned for its high prices . For those with a healthy wad
of pesos, the range of accommodation available reaches
international standards of luxury in a few places, though for those
on a tight budget there's little option but to hitch, camp and cut
out the luxuries. Reasonably priced dormitory accommodation is
available in the more popular spots, but elsewhere cheap options
can be hard to find, particularly for singles.
Despite the distances involved, driving is relatively
cheap, as fuel in the provinces of Chubut and Santa Cruz is
subsidized by fifty percent. Be aware of the need for caution on
the region's many gravel roads, however. Visitors who have limited
time, or who are less interested in getting an impression of the
vast scale of the place, should try to make use of domestic
flights to avoid some rather gruelling bus journeys. Airports
at Trelew, El Calafate, Río Gallegos and Comodoro Rivadavia all
have regular connections to the capital.