Ushuaia to Paso Garibaldi and the Sierra Alvear Travel Guide

The road from Ushuaia to Paso Garibaldi wends its way north and east through dramatic forested scenery, with great views of the valleys and savage mountain ranges that cross the southern part of the island, running diagonally northwest to southeast. Many activity centres and refuges have sprung up along the route, primarily to cater to winter-sports enthusiasts but which often also make excellent bases for adventurous trekking or horseriding. Above all, the rugged, serrated peaks of the Sierra Valdivieso and Sierra Alvear ranges make ideal bushwhacking territory. If rough-hiking independently, consult the helpful Club Andino in Ushuaia first, and do not underestimate the need for orienteering skills or the unpredictable nature of the weather: snow blizzards can hit at any time of year. You must also be prepared to get thoroughly soaked when crossing boggy ground and the ubiquitous streams, but you'll be rewarded by the sight of beaver dams up to two and a half metres high, as well, in all probability, as their destructive constructors.

Heading northeast from Ushuaia, the RN3 curls up around the foot of Monte Olivia , following the Río Olivia valley. To the right of the road, you can just catch a glimpse of the attractive Velo de la Novia (Bridal Veil Falls), peeping through the trees. The Valle Carbajal is bounded by the mountain ranges of the Sierra Valdivieso to south and the Cordón Vinciguerra to the north, the former with excellent rough-hiking opportunities. Further up the RN3, you enter the Valle de Tierra Mayor , the valley of the Río Lasifashaj. This is a popular area for winter sports and one of the first centres you come across heading this way is Altos del Valle , 18km out Ushuaia (tel & fax 02901/422234 for reservations). This breeding centre for baying huskies (husky rides $20; or $60 for a day course) offers rustic refugio -style accommodation (bring sleeping bags; $10 per person plus $5 for breakfast). For trekking (guided or otherwise), there's a relatively clear trail to Laguna Esmeralda, and a challenging hike to Glaciar Alvear. A kilometre beyond this centre is the highly recommended refuge, Nunatak (tel 02901/423240, fax 424108; antartur@tierradelfuego.ml.org ; bring a sleeping bag; $10 with basic breakfast), which offers tremendous views across the peat flatlands of the valley floor and up to both the pyramidal peak of Cerro Bonete (1100m) and Cerro Alvear (1425m). The refuge is clean; it has showers, a kitchen, and even videos; and they serve meals ($6). Ask about their tough but fascinating guided trek up to Lago Ojo del Albino (10hr; $55 with guide, crampons and food included).