HOWTH (the name derives from the Danish hoved, or "head",
and is pronounced to rhyme with "both") lies at the northernmost
point of both Dublin Bay and the DART line. Arriving in Howth, turn
right out of the DART station for the castle, left for the village,
abbey and cliff walks. You can also get here on the #31 bus,
picking up from the centre.
Howth Head is a natural vantage point giving views right
across Dublin Bay to the Wicklow Mountains and at times, so they
claim, even as far as the distant mountains of Mourne in the north
and those of Wales across the Irish Sea. Not surprisingly, it has
been a strategic military point for centuries, and its history
involves a long line of fearful incumbents on the lookout for
raiders. The legendary copper-mining Parthalons and Firbolg were
the first to come, later conquered by the Gaelic chieftain
Criomthain, whose grave is reputedly marked by a cairn on the
summit. The Gaels, in turn, were ousted by the Vikings in the
eighth century, and they were overthrown by the technologically and
strategically superior Normans, led by Sir Almeric Tristram. His
descendants, bearing the surname St Lawrence, continue to live at
Howth Castle today.
Howth is a popular day-trip destination for Dubliners, and it
has the happy and bracing air of a seaside resort, even off-season.
There's a harbour on the northside, dating from the days
when it, rather than Dún Laoghaire, was the main packet station for
Dublin. At the jetty at the end of the West Pier you can see the
footprint of King George IV, who landed here in 1821 instead of at
Dún Laoghaire (which was expecting to rename itself Kingstown in
honour of the event; he made up for it later by going home that
way). It was from the same jetty, in July 1914, that the Irish
Volunteers succeeded in landing 900 rifles and 25,000 rounds of
ammunition from Erskine Childers' yacht Asgard , which you
can see at Kilmainham Gaol. The harbour, full of working boats, is
nowadays sited alongside a marina crowded with less practical
craft. You can fish from the harbour pier, and, if you're in Howth
on a Thursday evening, it's worth staying to see the spectacle when
the herring boats come in. Beshoff's (renowned for their
fish-and-chip shops throughout the city) has a fishmongers on the
west quay, selling the freshest and cheapest seafood in the Dublin
area.
Opposite the harbour, the rock-encrusted island is Ireland's
Eye . A bird sanctuary, this uninhabited expanse of scrub grass
and ferns sports yet another Martello Tower and the ruins of a
sixth-century monastic church, St Nessan's. In summer, you can
cross by boat with Frank Doyle & Sons (tel 831 4200; return
trip £5/€6.35) to explore the island.
Much of the interior of Howth Head is built up, but a
footpath runs all the way round the coast. There are
impressive cliffs and amazing views: south past the mouth of the
Liffey to the Wicklow Mountains, and beyond, north to the flatlands
of the Boyne. To get to the cliffs, either carry straight on along
the shore road, or take the #31B bus up to the summit and cut down
from there.
Howth village itself is a slow, suburban place full of
steep streets and sudden views. Its one monument, on a quiet site
overlooking Ireland's Eye, is the ruined Howth Abbey, the first
church founded by Sigtrygg, Norse king of Dublin, in 1042. In one
of the later phases of a chequered history, it was used by
smugglers for storing contraband. The abbey is kept locked, but it
is possible to get the keys from the caretaker (tel 840 1979). Just
below the abbey is the Abbey Tavern : bare, stone-walled,
with stark wood furniture, turf fires and gas lighting. While the
old-world ambience can seem a little over-the-top it's well worth
visiting, as long as you don't mind the tourist bus-trip approach
to Irish wit and music. The Abbey Tavern
restaurant specializes in fish (best to book; tel 839 0307)
while the adjoining pub serves hearty lunchtime fare. The small
lane and steep steps beside the pub lead to the excellent Big
Blue café/restaurant, a tastefully restored building
overlooking the abbey where you can lounge in a deep-blue sofa and
enjoy a coffee, while taking in views of the abbey ruins below, and
beyond to the harbour and Ireland's Eye. The other good eating
place, if you've money to burn, is the excellent King Sitric's
Tavern , East Pier (tel 633 5235) with expensive but fabulous
main courses of fresh seafood, while at the opposite end of the
market, opposite the west pier (nearest the train station), is
another outlet of the excellent Beshoff's fish-and-chip
shops.
To get to Howth Castle , turn right out of the station
along Howth Road towards Dublin and, after a couple of hundred
yards, it's signposted on the left. The castle itself isn't open to
the public, but there's a small transport museum which is
(daily: June-Aug 10am-5pm; Sept-May noon-5pm; £1.50/€1.90). It's an
impressive building, even from the outside - a true, battlemented
castle, partly ruined, partly inhabited - and one that architects
from Francis Bindon to Edwin Lutyens have had a hand in restoring.
The gardens are famous for their azaleas and rhododendrons, which
bloom from May to June.