Portonovo Travel Guide (Portonovo, Italy)

Only 11km from Ancona PORTONOVO nestles beneath Monte Cónero, undeveloped save for two campsites and a few expensive hotels, one of which is sited in the Napoleonic fort that dominates the bay. Although its pebbly beach gets fairly busy in summer, the scenery is unbeatable, and the crowds are as nothing compared to those at Sirolo and Numana; even then, you can escape the crush if you're prepared to paddle and clamber to the few tiny beaches to the south. There's also a lovely Romanesque church, Santa Maria , perched above the beach at the end of an oleander-lined path. At present you can see it only from the outside (ask at the nearby Hotel Fortino Napoleonico for details of how to get into the grounds), but this is enough - the clear light reflected from the sea bathes it in a golden glow, the shadows adding to the delicate interplay of arcades and wavily tiled roof. The trail across Monte Cónero to Sirolo begins in Portonovo, at a stairway to the right of the Hotel Internazionale. Though rewarding, it's a steep and tricky hike, so don't attempt it without a map.

Portonovo is linked with Ancona by regular urban buses. Unfortunately all of the town's hotels are expensive - but at least there are some stylish choices. Emilia , Via Collina di Portonovo (tel 071.801.117, www.hotelemilia.com ; L250,000-300,000/€129.11-154.94) is a five minute car journey inland - and uphill - from the beach. A light, modern hotel, the walls are covered with a huge contemporary art collection, a legacy of the Fifties and Sixties when artists were invited to pay for their stay with a piece of their work. The pool and many places to lounge tempt you to stay put but there are electric bikes on loan for short rides up into the Monte Cónero Park, and a shuttle service down to the beach. Down by the seashore in a converted fortress is Fortino Napoleonico (tel 071.801.450, www.fastnet.it/market/fortino ; L250,000-300,000/€129.11-154.94) built on the orders of Napoleon to stop the English landing to take on fresh water from Monte Cónero's springs, and now an upmarket hotel. There are some military touches in the suites but generally the hotel is chi-chi and grand. Otherwise there are two campsites , Camping Comunale La Torre (tel 071.801.257; June to mid-Sept) is slightly cheaper; if it's full, try the Camping Club Adriatico (tel 071.801.170; May to mid-Sept). For food, Da Anna , on the beach (closed Tues), is a great family-run fish restaurant .