The City
The historic centre of Venice is made up of 118 islands, most of
which began life as a micro-community, each with a parish church or
two, and a square for public meetings. Though many Venetians
maintain a strong attachment to their particular part of the city,
the autonomy of these parishes has been eroded since the days when
traffic between them moved by water. Some 400 bridges now tie the
islands together, forming an amalgamation that's divided into six
large administrative districts known as sestieri, three on each
side of the Canal Grande.
The sestiere of San Marco is the zone where the majority
of the essential sights are clustered, and is accordingly the most
expensive and most crowded district of the city. On the east it's
bordered by Castello , and on the north by Cannaregio
- both of which become more residential, and poorer and quieter,
the further you go from San Marco. On the other bank the largest of
the sestieri is Dorsoduro , which stretches from the
fashionable quarter at the tip of the Canal Grande, south of the
Accademia gallery, to the docks in the west. Santa Croce ,
named after a now demolished church, roughly follows the curve of
the Canal Grande from Piazzale Roma to a point just short of the
Rialto, where it joins the commercially most active of the
districts on this bank - San Polo .
To the uninitiated, the boundaries of the sestieri can seem
utterly perplexing, and they are of little use as a means of
structuring a guide. So, although in most instances this guide uses
the name of a sestiere to indicate broadly which zone of the city
we're in, the boundaries of our sections have been chosen for their
practicality and do not, except in the case of San Marco, follow
the city's official divisions. Most of the sestiere of Santa Croce,
for example, is covered in the San Polo section, with the remnant
covered in Dorsoduro, as the sestiere has no focal point for the
visitor and very few sights
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