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Museum Quarter and south Travel Guide

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Museum Quarter and south

Immediately south of Leidseplein begins the Vondelpark , the city's most enticing park, named after the seventeenth-century Dutch poet Joost van der Vondel and a regular forum for drama and other performance arts on summer weekends, when young Amsterdam flocks here to meet friends, laze by the lake and listen to music; in June, July and August there are free concerts every Sunday at 2pm. Southeast of the park is one of Amsterdam's better-heeled residential districts, with designer shops and delis along chic P.C. Hooftstraat and Van Baerlestraat and some of the city's major museums grouped around the grassy wedge of Museumplein .

The Rijksmuseum , Stadhouderskade 42 (daily 10am-5pm; €6.80; www.rijksmuseum.nl ), is the one museum you shouldn't leave Amsterdam without visiting, with fine collections of medieval and Renaissance applied art, displays on Dutch history, a fine Asian collection and, most importantly, an array of seventeenth-century Dutch paintings that is far and away the best in the world. Most people head straight for one of the museum's great treasures, Rembrandt's The Night Watch , but there are many other, perhaps more interesting, examples of his work, not least the Staalmeesters , the late Jewish Bride , and some private and beautifully expressive works - a portrait of his first wife Saskia, a couple of his mother, a touching depiction of his son, Titus, and a late Self-Portrait , caught in mid-shrug as the Apostle Paul. There are also portraits by Frans Hals, landscapes by Jan van Goyen and Jacob van Ruisdael, the riotous scenes of Jan Steen and the peaceful interiors of Vermeer and Pieter de Hooch.

Just south, the Vincent Van Gogh Museum , Paulus Potterstraat 7 (daily 10am-6pm; €7; www.vangoghmuseum.nl ), comprises the collection of the artist's art-dealer brother Theo, with drawings, notebooks and letters displayed on a rotating basis, and a collection arranged chronologically, from the early years in Holland and works like the dour Potato Eaters , to the brighter works he painted after moving to Paris and then Arles, where he produced vivid canvases like The Yellow House and the Sunflowers series. Later, more expressionistic works include the Garden of St Paul's Hospital , painted at the asylum in St-Rémy, and his final, tortured paintings, including The Reaper and Wheatfield with Crows .

Just along the street at Paulus Potterstraat 13 is the modern-art Stedelijk Museum (daily: April-Sept 10am-6pm; Oct-March 11am-5pm; €4.50; www.stedelijk.nl ). Much of its wide-ranging permanent collection is on display in July and August, and parts of it year-round. There's normally a good showing on the first floor, starting off with drawings by Picasso, Matisse and their contemporaries, and moving on to paintings by the major Impressionists - Manet, Monet, Bonnard - and Post-Impressionists such as Ensor, Van Gogh and Cézanne. There's also work by Mondriaan and Malevich, a good stock of Marc Chagall's paintings, and a number of American Abstract Expressionists (Mark Rothko, Ellsworth Kelly and Barnett Newman). Two additional large-scale attractions are on the ground floor: Karel Appel's Bar in the foyer, installed for the opening of the Stedelijk in the 1950s, and the same artist's wild daubings in the museum's restaurant.

Further along Stadhouderskade from the Rijksmuseum, the Heineken Brewery , though no longer in production, runs tours of the characteristic red-copper brewery (Mon-Fri 9.30am & 11am, June to mid-Sept also 1pm & 2.30pm, July & Aug also Sat 11am, 1pm & 2.30pm; €1; over-18s only), providing a résumé of Heineken's history and the methods involved in the brewing process; afterwards you are given snacks and free beer . South of here is the neighbourhood known as De Pijp ("The Pipe") after its long, sombre canyons of brick tenements that went up in the nineteenth century as the city grew out of its canal-girded centre. This has always been one of the city's closest-knit communities, and one of its liveliest, with numerous inexpensive Surinamese and Turkish restaurants and a cheerful hub in the long slim thoroughfare of Albert Cuypstraat , whose general market is the largest in the city.

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