New Orleans Travel Guide (New Orleans, Louisiana)

New Orleans positively reels under the energy of its ever-present live music . From lonesome street musicians, through the shambling, joyous brass bands, to international names like Dr John and the Neville Brothers, music remains integral to the economy and the ideology of the Crescent City.

While the French Quarter has its share of atmospheric clubs and bars, there are plenty of good venues elsewhere. And visitors making a beeline for Bourbon Street , hoping to find it chock-a-block with cool jazz clubs, will be disappointed. That said, even this tawdriest of streets has a couple of good places to hear jazz and blues.

To decide where to go, check the listings papers (especially the superb music monthly Offbeat ), collect fliers in French Quarter record stores such as Magic Bus, 527 Conti St, or Louisiana Music Factory, 210 Decatur St, and keep an ear tuned to the fabulous local radio station WWOZ (90.7 FM), which features regular gig information and ticket competitions.

Music in New Orleans often doesn't get going until late. However, many venues put on two sets a night, often by different performers, so with a little creative club-hopping you could easily see three outstanding gigs in one evening. Another distinctive feature of New Orleans' nightlife is that many shows can be seen - and heard - from the street. If you hear something you like, but don't want to pay the cover charge - low or nonexistent in bars, but as much as $20 in some clubs - it's perfectly acceptable to stand outside with a "beer to go" from another bar, moving on when the fancy takes you.