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Rittenhouse Square Travel Guide

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Rittenhouse Square

Grassy Rittenhouse Square , one of Penn's original city squares, is in a very fashionable part of town. On one side it borders chic Walnut Street, on the other a residential area of solid brownstones with beautifully carved doors and windows. The redbrick 1860 Rosenbach Museum , 2010 Delancey Place, holds over thirty thousand rare books and James Joyce's original hand-scrawled manuscripts of Ulysses (Tues-Sun 11am-4pm, last tours at 2.45pm; $3.50). On summer evenings there are free outdoor jazz and R&B concerts in the square.

Three blocks northwest from the square, the Mutter Museum (Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, Sun noon-4pm; $8; tel 215/563-3737), 19 S 22nd St in the College of Physicians (between Chestnut and Market), is not for the squeamish. Filled with weird pathological and medical oddities, including sickeningly lifelike wax models of tumors and skin infections, alongside closets full of skeletons, syphilitic skulls, pickled internal organs and the death cast of a pair of Siamese twins, it's unique to say the least.

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