The cities and landscapes
Should Québec secede, Canada will lose its largest province -
accounting for a sixth of the country's territory; its 1.5 million
square kilometres could enclose Portugal, Spain, Germany, France,
Belgium and Switzerland. Of this vast expanse, sixty percent is
forest land peppered with more than a million lakes and waterways
and, though some mining towns dot the interior, the majority of the
population is concentrated in the rich arable lands along
the southern stretches of the mighty St Lawrence.
The Gallic ancestry of most Québécois is clear in their attitude
towards hedonistic pleasures - they eat and drink in a style that
combines the simplicity of the first settlers with the rich tastes
of the French. Nowhere is this more evident than in the island
metropolis of Montréal , premier port of the province and
home to a third of all Québécois. Montréal's skyscrapers and
nightlife bear witness to the economic resurgence of
French-speaking Canada, whereas in Québec City the
attraction lies more in the ancient streets and architecture.
Beyond these centres, the Gaspé Peninsula , poking into the
Gulf of St Lawrence, is the most appealing area with its inspiring
mountain scenery and rocky coastline. Part of the peninsula,
protected as parkland, provides sanctuary for a variety of
wildlife, from moose to herons. Here, a score of once-remote
fishing villages have become mini-resorts, the most attractive of
which is Percé . Some 200 miles southeast of the peninsula,
in the Gulf of St Lawrence, the Îlesde la Madeleine 's
windswept archipelagos and beach-trimmed islands are Québec's
version of the Caribbean.
Along the north shore of the St Lawrence, the agricultural -
and intermittently industrial - settlements that dot the landscape
north of Montréal thin out past Québec City, giving way to the
bleak desolation of a coastal road that stretches beyond
Havre-St-Pierre . On the way, you'll pass through the
delightful resorts of Baie-Saint-Paul and Tadoussac ;
the latter offers magnificent opportunities to go
whale-watching . The contrasting landscapes of the
Saguenay fjord , west of Tadoussac, and the northerly
Mingan Archipelago are among Québec's most dramatic sights.
Beyond the regions covered in this guide, Québec's inhospitable and
largely roadless tundra is inhabited only by pockets of
Inuit and other aboriginal peoples; it's a destination only for
those travellers who can afford an expensive bushplane and the
equipment needed for survival in the wilderness.
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