Beacon Hill Park
The best park within walking distance of the town centre is
Beacon Hill Park , south of the Inner Harbour and a few
minutes' walk up the road behind the museum. Victoria is sometimes
known as the "City of Gardens", and at the right times of the year
this park shows why. Victoria's biggest green space, it has lots of
paths, ponds, big trees and quiet corners, and plenty of views over
the Juan de Fuca Strait to the distant Olympic Mountains of
Washington State (especially on its southern side). These pretty
straits, incidentally, are the focus of some rather bad feeling
between Victoria and its US neighbour, for the city has a
(literally) dark secret: it dumps raw sewage into the strait,
excusing itself by claiming it's quickly broken up by the sea's
strong currents. Washington State isn't so sure, and there have
been plenty of arguments over the matter and, more to the point for
city elders, economically damaging convention boycotts by US
companies. Either way, it's pretty bad PR for Victoria and totally
at odds with its image. Gardens in the park are alternatively
tended and wonderfully wild and unkempt, and were a favoured
retreat of celebrated Victorian artist, Emily Carr. They also claim
the world's tallest totem pole (at around 40m), Mile Zero of the
Trans-Canada Hwy, and - that ultimate emblem of Englishness - a
cricket pitch. Some of the trees are massive old-growth timbers
that you'd normally only see on the island's west coast. Come here
in spring and you'll catch swaths of daffodils and blue camas
flowers, the latter a floral monument to Victoria's earliest
aboriginal inhabitants, who cultivated the flower for its edible
bulb. Some 30,000 other flowers are planted out annually.
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