Bar Léon , Brasil 5 (tel 5510-3093). Full-on dance bar
pumping out lively salsa, rhumba and meringue from 8pm to 3pm
Tuesday to Saturday (though much livelier closer to the weekend
when reservations are advisable). Cover is around US$4.50 and
drinks are modestly priced. Metro Zócalo.
Bar Mata , Filomena Mata 11 at Cinco de Mayo (tel
5518-0237). Forerunner of the current wave of downtown
antros and going strong in a colonial building where it
occupies the two upper floors, including a refreshing roof terrace
with great city views. Cool but not too cool, it generates a
relaxed dancey atmosphere from Thursday to Saturday, and there is
usually no cover. Metro Bellas Artes.
Del Centro , inside the Gran Hotel by the Zócalo.
Drinking is safe in this refined hotel bar, though since this is
Mexico, lone women will still attract attention. Metro Zócalo.
La Hostería del Bohemio , Hidalgo 107 (tel 5512-8328). An
alcohol-free café set around a large open courtyard of the former
San Hipolito convent where smooching couples sit at candlelit
tables half-listening to romantic ballads emanating passionately
from the live band in the corner. Metro Hidalgo.
La Nueva Ópera , 5 de Mayo near Bellas Artes. The best
watering hole downtown, in the grand tradition of upmarket cantinas
with magnificent fin-de-siécle decor - ornate mahogany
panelling, a brass-railed bar, gilt-framed mirrors in the booths -
and a bullet hole in the ceiling reputedly put there by Pancho
Villa. You can dine here too but most people come for a fairly
pricey beer or cocktails in the booths or at the bar. Metro Bellas
Artes.
Pervert Lounge , Uraguay 70 (tel 5518-0976). One of the
centre's more cutting-edge clubs and nowhere near as sleazy as it
might sound. From Wednesday to Saturday the beautiful people flock
to hear funky beats and Latin grooves, paying about US$7 for entry.
Club 69 , next door is similar and equally good. Metro
Allende.
Tio Pepe , Independencía 26 at Dolores. Convivial
cantina with moulded ceilings and wooden bar. Minstrels frequently
drop in to bash out a few numbers, and despite the sign on the door
women are allowed in. Metro Bellas Artes.