The traditional centre of the city is the Zócalo , or
Plaza Mayor; the heart of ancient Tenochtitlán and of Cortés' city,
it's surrounded by the oldest streets, largely colonial and
unmodernized. To the east, the ancient structures degenerate
rapidly, blending into the poorer areas that surround the airport.
Westwards, avenidas Madero and Juárez lead to the
Alameda , the small park that marks the extent of the old
city centre. Here is the Palacio de las Bellas Artes, the main post
office and the landmark Torre Latinoamericana. Carry straight on
past here and you get into an area, between the ugly bulk of the
Monumento a la Revolución and the train station, where
you'll find many of the cheaper hotels. Turn slightly south and
you're amid the faded elegance of the Paseo de la Reforma ,
which leads down to the great open space of Chapultepec Park
, recreation area for the city's millions, and home of the Museo
Nacional de Antropología and several other important museums. Off
to the right as you head down Reforma is a sedate, upmarket
residential area, where many of the long-established embassies are
based, while on the left is the Zona Rosa with its shopping
streets, expensive hotels and constant tourist activity. To the
south, the Zona bleeds into Condesa , which in the last few
years has become the fashionable place to eat, drink and
party. To the west, the northern flank of Chapultepec Park is lined
by the flashy high-rise hotels of Colonia Polanco , among
the city's chicest districts and home to many of the finest shops
and restaurants.
The Avenida de los Insurgentes crosses Reforma about
halfway between the Alameda and Chapultepec Park. Said to be the
longest continuous city street in the world, Insurgentes bisects
Mexico City more or less from north to south. It is perhaps the
city's most important artery, lined with modern commercial
development. In the south it runs past the suburb of San
Ángel and close by Coyoacán to the University
City , and on out of Mexico City by the Pyramid of
Cuicuilco . Also in the southern extremities of the city are
the waterways of Xochimilco , virtually the last remains of
the great lagoons. In the outskirts Insurgentes meets another
important through-route, the Calzada de Tlalpan , which runs
due south from the Zócalo past the eastern side of Coyoacán and
past a couple of fine museums - Diego Rivera's Anahuacalli, and the
wonderful Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño.
To the north, Insurgentes leaves the centre past the train
station, and close by the northbound bus station, to sweep out of
the city via the basilica of Guadalupe and Indios
Verdes . The northern extension of Reforma, too, ends up at the
great shrine of Guadalupe, as does the continuation of the Calzada
de Tlalpan beyond the Zócalo.
One further point to remember is that many street names
are repeated over and over again in different parts of the city -
there must be dozens of streets called Morelos, Juárez or Hidalgo,
and a good score of 5 de Mayos. If you're taking a cab, or looking
at a map, be clear which area you are talking about - it's fairly
obvious in the centre, but searching out an address in the suburbs
can lead to a series of false starts unless you know the name of
the official colonia , or urban district (abbreviated "Col"
in addresses outside the centre), that you're looking for.