Mexico City Travel Guide (Mexico City, Mexico)

Pulque is the fermented sap of the maguey cactus, a species of agave that grows in the countryside north and east of Mexico City. Production continues much as it has done for centuries with barrels being shipped daily to the pulquerías of the capital, of which there were over 1400 during pulque's heyday in the first half of the twentieth century. It has always been considered a poor man's drink, and as beer and other drinks have become more affordable, pulque's stock has gone down. Pulquería owners estimate there are now only around a hundred left and with no new ones opening up that number looks set to decline further.

Unless you are looking for them, pulquerías are hard to spot; they're concentrated in less salubrious areas of town mostly unvisited by tourists and often have no sign, just a pair of swing doors guarding a dark interior. Like cantinas, they are a mainly male preserve and women are more likely to receive a respectful welcome when accompanied by a male friend. That said, most drinkers will be so surprised to see a foreigner in there that you'll immediately strike up a friendly conversation.

These places are not set up for anything much more sophisticated than knocking back large glasses of this slightly astringent opaque white beverage, usually ladled out of barrels behind the bar. Among the ageing clientele the emphasis is as much on socializing as drinking, which is a good thing since most pulque is only 2-4 percent alcohol and getting drunk requires considerable commitment. The task is made easier when pulque is blended with fresh fruit juices - pineapple, apricot, guava and many others - to form a weaker but more palatable cocktail. The least intimidating hunting ground is the Plaza Garibaldi where La Hermosa Hortensia is always brightly lit and usually has several good flavours served up to a cross-section of men and women, locals and foreigners. During the day you are better off exploring the district south of the Zócalo where Calle Mesones is home to a couple of early closing establishments: La Elegancia , at the corner of Isabela la Católica; and La Risa , at Callejón de Mesones.