There are boat trips out to Mismaloya from Puerto
Vallarta, and for the wonderful beaches further south -
Playa Las Animas, Quimixto and Yelapa are the most common
destinations - a boat is the only means of access. Travel agents
all over town tout a variety of excursions, most of which leave
from the new marina. Miller Tours at Paseo de Las Garzas 100,
between Hotel Krystle and Hotel Crown Paradise in
Nuevo Vallarta (tel 3/224-1197), and Vallarta Adventures at the
Marina (tel 3/221-0657, www.vallarta_adventures.com ) both
have good reputations, though compare prices and what's on offer in
the way of food and drink - if meals are not included it's worth
taking your own food along.
A much cheaper way to travel is to jump on a water taxi .
These depart from Playa de Los Muertos for Quimixto and Las Animas
at 10am and for Yelapa at 10.30am, returning from all destinations
at about 4pm. Alternatively, you can catch a bus to Boca de
Tomatlán from where about five taxis a day, starting at 10.30am,
sail to all three destinations.
Quimixto and Las Animas are beaches pure and
simple, while at Yelapa there's a small "typical" village
not far from the white-sand beach, and a waterfall a short distance
into the jungle. It's marketed as an "untouched paradise" but is
more of a luxurious if rustic retreat - there's no electricity, but
long-distance phone lines, sushi, and Reiki massages are all on
offer. During the day Yelapa is a lively place with day-trippers
enjoying all the usual beach activities including parasailing,
horse riding and boat trips. If you've got the time and money, stay
for the night, as the beach empties as the sun sets and becomes the
perfect spot for total rest and relaxation. The Hotel
Lagunita (tel 3/298-0554, www.lagunitahotel.com.mx ;
US$60-80) has beautiful cabañas , but it's easy to
camp on the beach, or with luck you might be able to rent a
hut for very little.
If you want to go snorkelling or scuba diving at
the southern beaches, tours are led by Chico's Dive Shop, Díaz
Ordaz 770-2 (daily 8am-10pm; tel 3/222-1895). You can rent gear
here, too (US$12 a day for the mask, snorkel and fins; US$40 for
the full scuba rig, including tank). It is usually too stiflingly
humid to consider anything as energetic as mountain biking ,
but Bike Mex, Guerrero 361 at Miramar, just north of the upper
river bridge (tel 3/223-1680), rents out bikes (US$30 a day), but
prefers you to take one of their organized tours into the jungly
slopes behind the town and beyond (from US$44).