Along Chang'an Jie
Chang'an Jie
, the freeway which runs dead straight east-west across the
city, changing its name four times along its length, is downtown
Beijing at its most grandiose and unreal. A showcase street, it is
lined with the headquarters of official and commercial power, which
rub shoulders with the glitziest hotels and malls. Architectural
styles are jumbled together, with international modernism,
post-modern whimsy and brute Stalinism all in evidence, as well as
the odd block of hutongs, and a couple of ancient sites
looking utterly lost amid this parade of gargantuan robots. Heading
west from Tian'anmen Square, the tone is mostly official, dominated
by the Communist Party Headquarters and two museums ,
though there's a pretty good shopping district, Xidan ,
where you can rub shoulders with the locals, and the pleasant
Baiyuguan Si to chill out in. East is more glamorous, with
heavy lashings of shopping, perhaps the best in China, plus flashy
hotels and restaurants. In this direction, the Observatory
provides respite from all this fun but ultimately rather exhausting
consumerism. Along Chang'an Jie, you'll find most of the facilities
you need: the post office, Aviation Office, central train station
and plenty of banks. For a quick fix of the whole experience, take
bus #1, which travels the entire length of the freeway.
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