If you take all your meals at an all-inclusive hotel, you'll get
little sense of how Dominicans eat and drink ; the
"international" buffet fare on offer at these resorts can't compete
with the delicious, no-nonsense cooking at the many mom-and-pop
restaurants just outside their walls. Dominicans call their cuisine
"comida criolla", and it's a delicious - if often a bit greasy -
blend of Spanish, African and Taíno elements, with interesting
regional variants across the island. Dishes usually include rice
and beans - referred to locally as la bandera dominicana
(the Dominican flag) - using either habichuelas (red beans)
or the tiny black peas known as morros . Most often the rice
is supplemented with chicken, either fried, grilled or served
asopao (in a rich, soupy sauce). Invariably main courses
come with plátanos (deep-fried green plantains, which locals
often inundate with ketchup), and a small coleslaw salad. Outside
of the major cities, vegetarians will often have to stick to
rice and beans.
Local breakfasts are traditionally starchy and huge, and
typically include huevos revueltos (scrambled eggs),
sometimes con jamón (with bits of ham mixed in);
mangú , mashed plantains mixed with oil and bits of fried
onion; and queso frito , a deep-fried cheese. Dominican
lunches are the day's main meal. Aside from the omnipresent
chicken, popular main courses include mondongo , a tripe
stew strictly for the strong of stomach; mofongo , a tasty
blend of plantains, pork rinds and garlic; and bistec
encebollado , grilled steak topped with onions and peppers.
Special occasions , particularly in rural areas, call for
either chivo (roast goat) with cassava , a crispy,
flat bread inherited from the Taínos; or sancocho , a hearty
stew with five different kinds of meat. For the very best in
Dominican eating, go for the seafood , which is
traditionally prepared one of five ways: criolla , in a
flavourful, slightly spicy tomato sauce; al ajillo , doused
in a rich garlic sauce; al horno , roasted with lemon; al
orégano , in a tangy sauce with fresh oregano and heavy cream;
and con coco , in a tomato, garlic and coconut milk blend
especially prevalent on the Samaná Peninsula. The best local fish
are the mero (sea bass), chillo (red snapper) and
carite (kingfish). Other popular seafoods include
langosta (clawless lobster), lambí (conch),
camarones (shrimp), pulpo (octopus) and
cangrejo (crab).
As far as drinks go, Dominican coffee is among the best
in the world. Most Dominicans take it solo , with a great
deal of sugar added, which is the way it's sold for RD$1 by morning
street vendors, and handed out for free in the petrol stations.
Dominican café con leche is made with steamed milk and is
extremely good. Jugo de naranja , fresh orange juice
squeezed as you order it, is another omnipresent Dominican morning
drink; be sure to ask for it sin azúcar (without sugar).
Later in the day you should sample the fresh coconut milk
sold by street vendors, and the many Dominican batidas ,
popular fruit shakes made with ice, milk and either papaya, mango,
pineapple or banana.
There are several Dominican beer brands, but by far the
best and most popular is Presidente , served in both
normal-sized and surreally large bottles, and comparing favourably
with beers from across the world. Also popular are the very good,
inexpensive local rums , Brugal, Barceló and Bermúdez.