Cordillera Apaneca to Ahuachapan Travel Guide

Stretching east for more than 70km from the Guatemalan border, the glorious mountains of the Cordillera Apaneca are covered in a patchwork of coffee plantations and acres of pine forest, and are traversed by the so-called " Ruta de las Flores ", which stretches between the villages of Concepción de Ataco and Nahuizalco, named after the abundant white coffee flowers which are visible during May and the wild flowers that colour the hills and valleys from October to February. The population of the village of NAHUIZALCO , set on the southern edge of the range about 10km north of Sonsonate, is mostly descended from the region's indigenous peoples, although few wear traditional dress any longer. The town thrives on the manufacture of wicker, with workshops lining the main street. Some of the pieces, such as baskets, are small enough to take home; gentle bargaining is acceptable. There's also an intriguing evening market where fruit and vegetables are sold by candlelight.

Beyond Nahuizalco, the air cools and freshens as the road winds its way up into the mountains proper; there are superb vistas down to Sonsonate and across the plains to the coast. Fifteen kilometres from Sonsonate is JUAYÚA (pronounced "hwai-oo-a"), whose magnificent Templo del Señor de Jusyúa , built in colonial style in 1955, houses the Black Christ of Juayúa , carved by Quiro Cataño, sculptor of the Black Christ of Esquipulas in Guatemala. Consequently the town is something of a pilgrimage site, particularly during the January festival. Accommodation is available at the Casa de Huéspedes de Doña Mercedes (tel 452 2287; US$15-25), 2a Av Sur at 6a C Ote 3-6, a cheerful place with comfortable rooms, hot water and cable TV - it gets busy at weekends and holidays. The Alojamiento Las Azaleas (tel 452 2383; US$10-15), C Merceditas Cáceres Ote at 2a Av Sur, is more basic but clean, and also has a decent restaurant. Of the places to eat , La Calera on the Parque serves good coffee, cakes and light meals.