North Travel Guide

North of San Salvador , hilly pastures and agricultural land give way to the remote, rugged and sparsely populated Chalatenango and Cuscatlán provinces , a region of poverty and pride, all but closed to outsiders. The Spanish found few natural riches to attract them this far north, and the wealth generated by the indigo and coffee plantations of the lowlands never reached here. Successive generations of campesinos have struggled to make a living in this harsh terrain, separated from the capital by distance and mindset. The sustained underdevelopment of the area created fertile ground for dissent and support for the FMLN , who controlled large parts of the department of Chalatenango for significant periods during the 1980s. Both army and guerrillas struggled to take control, leaving communities devastated in their wake and refugees fleeing across the border to Honduras. The scars of this are still evident, as - helped by various international aid agencies - villages struggle to repopulate and rebuild, against a background of continuing economic hardship, marginalization and growing civil violence.

Understandably, then, the welcome extended to foreigners can be initially rather cool; tourism is not a widely understood concept and travelling here is neither easy nor comfortable and - in rare instances - can be dangerous . Although so far no foreigners have been killed, the murder rate is high, particularly in Chalatenango, where many locals have been hijacked, held up with guns and shot. Though this usually happens to people in cars, you should also take great care if walking in the countryside around Chalatenango, and never carry anything of value. A little common sense, however, along with persistence, does bring results. Quite apart from the breathtaking mountain views and clear, fresh blue skies, there are a couple of genuinely appealing places to see: chiefly the tranquil and friendly Suchitoto , considered to be the finest colonial town in the country, set on the shores of Lago de Suchitlán ; and the mountain village of La Palma , with its cottage handicraft industry. The Pipil ruins of Cihuatán , though somewhat specialist in appeal, are an easy trip from the capital. In addition, the glorious Metapán Alotepeque mountain range offers walking and hiking possibilities.