Lying off the south end of Honshu, Japan's third largest island,
KYUSHU , is surrounded by a spray of smaller islands which
trail off in a long arc across the East China Sea. It's a relaxed,
uncomplicated place, with its own distinctive character and enough
variety to make it a feasible holiday destination on its own.
Though Kyushu has no absolutely compelling sights, there's
something for everyone here, from dynamic cities to ancient folk
dances, grumbling volcanoes and steaming hot spring baths. It's
perfectly possible to scoot round the main cities in a week, but
you'll need more like two to do it justice, allowing time for the
splendid mountainous interior and a few of the more far-flung
islands.
This area has long had close links with the Asian mainland, and
Kyushu's chief city, Fukuoka , is again becoming an
important regional hub. An energetic city on the island's heavily
developed north coast, most people pass Fukuoka by, but it's a
shame to miss out on its superb modern architecture and vibrant
nightlife. If you've only got a couple of days on Kyushu, however,
Nagasaki represents the best all-round destination. Though
its prime draw is the A-Bomb museum and related sights, the city
also has a picturesque harbour setting, a laid-back cosmopolitan
air and a spattering of temples and historical museums. From here
it's a short hop east to Kumamoto , famous for its castle
and landscaped garden, and the empty, rolling uplands of central
Kyushu beyond. Dominated by the spluttering, smouldering cone of
Aso-san , this is great hiking country, while hot-spring
enthusiasts will also be in their element - from Kurokawa
Onsen's delightful rotemburo to the bawdy pleasures of
Beppu on the east coast. The mountain village of Takachiho
requires a fair detour, but it's worth it for the thrilling train
ride along the Gokase gorge and to see traditional dance
performances depicting the antics of Japan's ancient gods.
The island's southern districts contain more on the same theme -
volcanoes, onsen and magnificent scenery - and, if you're pushed
for time, there's no need to linger. However, there are some real
highlights, including one of the world's most active volcanoes,
Sakurajima , which looms over the city of Kagoshima .
Nearby Chiran was a World War II airbase for kamikaze pilots
who are the subject of a somewhat perturbing museum, after which
Yakushima provides the perfect tonic. This lush, lumpy
island, roughly 100km south of Kyushu, has recently been designated
a World Heritage Site, in honour of its towering, thousand-year-old
cedar trees.
Kyushu is connected to the main island of Honshu by road and
rail. Trains on the Tokaido Shinkansen terminate in
Fukuoka's Hakata Station and are covered by JR West's Sanyo Area
Pass
. From Hakata, JR Kyushu trains fan out to all the major cities,
and the company offers its own five- and seven-day rail
passes (¥15,000 & ¥20,000) for travelling round the island.
These allow unlimited travel on all local, limited express and
express trains, but not the Shinkansen or JR buses, and note that
you have to buy the exchange voucher before arriving in Japan
.
In the central uplands and southern Kyushu, however, you'll be
more reliant on local buses , particularly in the south, and
a limited number of private train lines. For exploring these more
remote areas, car rental is an excellent option - as elsewhere in
Japan, there are car rental outlets in almost every town and
in all the main tourist areas.